New at the Bangalow monthly markets is a stall from Imogen’s Farm winery and farmstay. They are selling their second vintage now but it’s taken some time to go through all the hoops for local and state government approval to sell wine and gain permission to have a stall at the markets. This is a small family-operated business located in the hills of Whian Whian. Now doesn’t a winery at Whian Whian have a nice ring to it!
Christine and Douglas Kesteven sold their farm in Toowoomba in 1996 and moved to Byron Bay, where they ran the Deli Byron (now Mokka). Their son Nathan and his wife Jessica bought an 80ha property in 1999, to do rainforest restoration and establish cabinet timber plantations. What a wonderful location; near the Nightcap Ranges, with Branch Creek running through it, rainforest remnants and an abundance of wildlife. Nathan applied for a multiple occupancy title so that other members of the family could also live there. When Christine and Douglas sold the deli in 2002 they looked around for other enterprises. Grape picking in the Barossa Valley at the Henschke vineyard proved to be their eureka moment. Let’s make wine! Doing some research and talking to locals they realised that the Chambourcin grape was the only one really suited to the north coast climate. This variety has an open bunch style and thick skins, making it more fungus resistant. It is a medium bodied red, which is also successfully produced in wineries such as Cassagrain at Port Macquarie and O’Reillys in the Lamington area. The Kestevens planted up a well-drained, red soil slope and continued their research, working in the Stanthorpe vineyards and wineries to gain hands-on experience. Douglas’ background in agriculture and hydroponics helped, as did the advice of local Italian grape growers and home wine makers. 
Imogen’s Farm is named after Douglas and Christine’s late daughter and the wine bears this label. The various wine styles carry the names of the Kestevens’ seven grandchildren, who help in the winery – Innes is a whiz at the corking machine. There are two Chambourcin styles: a straight Chambourcin (Innes) and Sweet Chambourcin (Ziggy), a fortified port style. Then there are Chambourcin blends, with Shiraz (Annicka) or Grenache (Sinclair) and finally, a straight Merlot (Felix). ‘Emlyn’ and ‘Patryce’ styles are being developed. The Shiraz, Merlot and Grenache grapes are brought in to provide variety in the range but the straight Chambourcin wines have been the most popular. The wines are sold through markets at Bangalow and the Channon, a few local restaurants, the local Dunoon store or at the cellar door (by appointment).
All this sounds like a full workload for a small family business but Christine and Douglas have visions for further expansions. Christine has developed a limoncello, made with bush lemons growing on the property. This looks like a real winner and will be available at the July Bangalow market. They are also experimenting with other sub-tropical fruit liqueurs, one of which we tasted and hope it continues into production. Locavores will be pleased to know there’s a local winery and I’m sure lots of people will be keen to try something excitingly new for special occasions or cool winter nights. Look out for the stall and try a sample at the next markets.
Judy Baker
Christine and Douglas Kesteven (above) with friend celebrate the first pressing.
